What is it about these fancy hotels? They just do not get the importance of our cars, dahling. We'll find this out in the middle of the day. But before we go there...

It seems that there was a hail storm last night. Because I was sleeping 17 plus hours I did not know that. The rest of the group went to a town that starts with an I and has some Vs and Ns in it for strudel for dinner. We are all sick of dinner and are on a hunt for good strudel. As I was up early, I poked around the parking lot seeing what folks were up to. This is a cool bunch of packing tape. Cool because it won't be cool. This guy has sealed up all the cracks around his windscreen to keep the cold, rain and hail out. Apparently, there was a tornado or something in the I town. He was trying to put gas in the car and was barely keeping the sand out of the tank. Like Lawrence of Arabia if they had Rolls Royces. He had the wrench to open the fuel cap on the trunk, and the wind blew it right off. Metal signs and trash cans hit the car. 

Having missed all the fun, I found coffee without telling anyone. This is Dan. He is the guy who takes  your $2 while he is changing all the little white letters in the sign. Dan is in the golf club. You can walk there. I brought my Sewanee Mom go cup because I only like my coffee in rigid containers like actual coffee cups.


 This is Alicia. Alicia works in the world's best breakfast place that Herb works at during the evening. She was very busy and couldn't talk much. The breakfast was very good. This is mango and coconut french toast. The eggs were the first edible ones of The Tour. Herb came in as we finished and we busted his chops about being late. He will lose his job. Big deal, said Herb, I have two other ones. He does. Herb is a go-getter. He also said he would cook us strudel and it would be very good. I bet it would. Too bad we are leaving today.

This is Todd and Carrie. They were looking at the car. I had a nice conversation with them that covered interesting things, but I can't for the life of me remember about what. I think it had something to do about vacation.





This is what it looks like to ride in the back seat up to the park gate. This is what it looks like to ride in the back seat looking at a burn area. This is what it looks like to... Oh, heck, when you ride in the back seat it all looks the same. We went up 5400 feet. That is high and cold. I am not good enough to drive on an 11% grade as I cannot downshift yet. Thus the back seat.



This is the park pass collector's place. It has an address. Have you ever seen a toll booth with an address? Me neither. Must be a Canadian thing. This is Marti (or Marty or Mardi). She works in 5085 and gives us a group rate on our passes.










It is fucking cold. It has been fucking cold for days. I am wearing a shirt, a sweater, a windbreaker, a quilted jacket and a parka, all at once, in that order. Also a ski cap and gloves. I am fucking, fucking, fucking cold. Have I mentioned it's cold? Here are Bob and Bev. They are in shorts. A Tour passenger (not me-- I have on way more clothes) is on the right. Obviously, Bob and Bev are not cold. They do not ride in a Rolls Royce. This is Jack and Jack. No, they say. They are Ray and Ray. I don't know where I got Jack. Jack wants to know if we have a reverse spark. We do. You can make the car go backwards. Yes we can. Cool.

These are two teenagers who are on their billionth tour and really don't want to be here but their parents made them and when they grow up they will understand why this is great. I love her RR cap. Note ski cap liner and multiple jackets. He is crazy and doesn't wear much but then complains and hides under the tonneau cover. I have been known to do that. It hailed again.




 This is a corner of The Chateaux at Lake Louise. They are not very nice here and do not respect the cars. Several of us got parking spaces up front but then the valet Nazis decided that they could only do so much for the group. They got 4 in and need the rest because they have 15 rental cars coming in. I don't think they understand that there is roughly $18 million trying to park. I asked them to valet it, just like at Biltmore. Just like at Biltmore they said they couldn't. Why not? Oh, just nevermind. We were directed to park in the garage. One of us is over 8 feet tall. Didja ever see a parking garage with 9 foot clearance? Me neither. This is an asshole.

Came to the Chateaux to have lunch overlooking Lake Louise. Nine in our group. We offered to split into two groups. It would be a long time, a very long time and wouldn't take our names. Hmmm... I guess this is a Teutonic establishment, secretly funded by Porsche, Mercedes, BMW and Audi, and plotting against the wild Rolls Royce. We had lunch anyhow, not at the nice place, but in the basement. This is the view to the lake. Not too bad, but we came for the big view.





This is Christine and this is Godfrey. I think that is his English name like they have on the help lines in India. It seems that a lot of Japanese tourists come to fancy hotels in Canada. When asked whether to have the chowder or the special soup, Godfrey said well, the latter is special. It was funny. One of the lunchers said that at the gas station they were asked where they could rent one of these (the Rolls). Seriously. Oh, and no free Internet. Only in expensive hotels do you have to pay for Internet.


After lunch we sought out the elusive Qiviuk. What the heck is that? A qiviuk is a musk ox. It lives in northern Canada and is 8 times lighter and warmer than cashmere. Its fur that is. And a lot of Japanese people buy it. In fact, the two shopkeepers we met spoke very little English. This is Daichi. I love Daichi. We had the usual credit card problems when I was trying to buy a very lovely qiviuk sweater. Tried three cards. Daichi gave me an 8% discount. So sorry for inconvenience. Daichi understands why I need a warm sweater as he has gone all over Japan by motorbike. Still working on credit cards. Daichi gives me 10% discount. So sorry for inconvenience. When I asked to take Daichi's picture, he said just like Japanese movie star.


Back on road perusing signs. One of those big lettered light up portable signs: Avalanche. Well didn't see an avalanche, but did see Blasting Area No Stopping sign. In the middle of these gorgeous mountains that we haven't left all day, there is a plant of some kind. Baymor. Then LaFarge. Then Greymont. And a Class III Landfill. Then an Improvement District. Yes, you need some. Note to self: see what plants make. Looks like strip mining.


Go over Texas Gate. I have to postulate what a Texas Gate is but it is metal slats with nothing beneath it. I think it is to keep cattle from crossing. This would make sense because we are going into Rafter Six Ranch. Sign: Chipmunk Crossing. Slow. I get my shotgun out on chipmunks. Steal all the bird food and undermine massively old trees doing untold damage. I assume Chipmunk Crossing Slow means to go slow to aim your wheels properly and not spook the things until it is too late.

The Rafter Six Ranch is a dude ranch. I have spent many summers in a similar place in Colorado. I like it. However, Rolls Royce drivers do not. We are staying for two nights. Get to assigned cabin which turns out to be pretty historic. Two bedrooms and one bath. Daddyo cannot share a bathroom with his wife and he sure as hell isn't gonna share a tiny one with two of us. Race back to reception before they see this. Get last room in lodge which has been vacated by someone who didn't like it. It is fine although up three flights of very steep steps. Fancy Couple checks out early and goes somewhere we know not. There are rumors about the precarious financial situation of Fancy Couple but they are still putting on the Ritz (or the Chateaux or whatever). They have had to put their plane on lease through Delta. Friends next to me have no hot water. I say it is part of the experience although I am waiting to wash my hair until civilization.

Go to bar. This is Joanne the bartender. Joanne the says that we will have her waiting on us (all 50 of us) because they have a wedding. A small one, 100 guests. The other two waitresses will do that. Last week they did one for 260. About half are from France. Go figure. I suppose it's like us wanting to get married in sight of the Eiffel Tower or something. Drink and read Rocky Mountain Outlook newspaper:

Canmor to cull bunnies
Banff agrees to fund seniors' housing
Several Bow Valley wildlife photographers are mad as hell and they're not going to just take pictures anymore.





Stan visits with us. He is Stan Crowley who owns the joint but I had to pry that out of him. Stan tells us about the white buffalo. He is four years old, from the Dakotas, and a true white buffalo, not an albino. Stan says white buffalos are one in 1 to 5 million. I looked it up on the Bison Association or something website and they say 10 million and they should know. The buffalo has dark eyes and he is in quarantine behind the corral after a couple of months in quarantine in Nebraska. The official animal guys came to the Rafter Six to get rid of the lambs and goats at the petting zoo and spray the place with lots of stuff. The white buffalo is sacred to the Indians. Stan says that everyone of his generation (white and red alike) say Indians. The next generation says First Nations. Now they say Aboriginals. Anyhow, all the tribes in the U.S. have done ceremonies with the buffalo which I think is named White Spirit. Also looked him up. No mention. Must be on the down low for the Indians. As each tribe does its rituals, it ties a flag up.



Time for wagon rides. Not everybody fits in so I decide to wait for next go around. First passenger said it was a tour of the place and not worth it. Didn't go. Later wish I had because I like to know the history of places. Decided to see white buffalo instead. Walked around and around and way behind the corral like he said but no luck. Waited for something, I forget what. Someone, I think it was Stan, said to go straight through the corral and the horses are friendly as long as you keep talking.

Decide to give it a go. Open gate. Step in between about 25 horses. Keep talking. Do great. Am confident. Very very large horse taking interest. I know how to approach a horse because I went to yet another dude ranch and the horse whisperer told me. Big horse is happy I know this. Horse breathes heavily and literally took a little of my shirt up his nose. Get to other side and ta-da! White buffalo. Unfortunately, white buffalo is not very interesting. He will be let go with a younger bull and three cows (I think you call them cows and not buffalettes). Life of Reilly and he knows it.



We are only to take pictures of white buffalo for our personal use and not for commercial purposes. I hope that I am not violating any sacred stuff by posting here. As the fourth white buffalo signifies the end of the earth in an Indian traditional story, I would not want to be responsible for Armegeddon. The flags are sort of Nepal prayer flags. I'm amazed by the similarity of traditions around the world. The most bizarre stuff is happening in this post. It is very, very difficult to size the photos. They keep on coming up big. Gotta take this white buffalo stuff seriously.






This is a guy on The Tour. He is rocking the western stuff. This is just before dinner. We have BBQ steak and the best beans ever. Ever ever.